1861 Corset #2

I thought I was being so clever... I wanted to do a fancier corset, and this time I wanted to line it to make it reversible. I picked out two beautiful asian brocades, one black, one lavender, and started cutting. I basically made two separate corsets, boned one, and was going to put them together when I realized that I would absolutely not be able to use a busk if it was going to be reversible. Crap.  The busk isn't necessary, per se, but it does make putting the corset on a million times easier, since you prelace, and use the busk opening to put the garment on. I sewed the front halves together, and added 1/2" boning in place of the busk.  I sewed together what would be the lacing ends of the corset, turned it back to fabric right sides out, and ran a seam along the bottom edges of both sides to hold the boning in place.  In went the boning (1/4" steel bones with coated tips), and then I set the grommets for a trial run.  The corset fit okay in the waist and hips, but the bust was a little too big, and a little short.  After doing some research, that IS the perfect height for a Victorian corset, but the bust shouldn't be quite so roomy (or I should be better endowed to wear it.)  After debating on scrapping it and starting over, adding darts to take up the slack, or just leaving it to see how it turned out, I ended up adding internal darts on each side, bringing it in about an inch total, and then sewed a seam at the top to hold it all together.  This morning, I added on some pretty satin bias tape to finish the edges. I still haven't decided if I am going to gut it to take the bones out to reuse on another project, we'll see what happens. Overall, I'm okay with the fit, but I think there are better options. I'd like to see a slightly longer garment overall, both on the hip and at the bust, and I'd like to see one with different pattern shapes, so I ordered a TV110 from the Truly Victorian pattern line.  It uses a 14" busk instead of a 12" busk, so I think I will be happy with that version once I work through fitting issues.

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Ironically, the corset make from the cotton twill fit and wore better than this one, with it's two layers of brocade. I think the brocade is slippery and has more give than the twill.  Sadly, I have a few days until my new pattern gets here and I can place an order for the new busk and other boning I will need for it. I should get back on the Venetian while I wait. : )